The old and the new. The modern and the traditional. Throughout the country I saw the 2 coincide, cooperate or conflict. Modernity and tradition sometimes indistinguishable, sometimes only there in the eyes of the beholder, often unnoticed and even irrelevant. But always there, trying to find peaceful coexistence. Where else could one expect such tension than in the center of traditional Javanese court culture?
Riding through Jogja the whole spectrum of both ancient and popular culture is clear to see for those that care to look. Traditional batik cloth is sold together with impressionist batik paintings and there are more shops selling trendy 'KAOS' t-shirts than there are traditional wayang kulit and wayang golek shops. A high frequency of high quality graffiti street art alternates with art deco buildings from the colonial era and of course the old Javanese palaces.
When I arrive at the Sultan's water palace 'Taman Sari' I meet Andreas, a Christian descendant of a long line of 'Sultan's people'. His father and all his predecessors were assigned to specific tasks relating to the Sultan's household. Today his father is in fact a 'koster' at the Church, but much to his son's dismay still returns to the Kraton every week to perform his assigned task: 'Clean the Sultan's toilet'.
Andreas is a well educated man of a whole new generation. He was chosen by the Unesco at the top of his class to perform tasks of a different caliber. He is also an artist that paints beautiful batik paintings. One of which I gladly purchased seeing his emotions of the moment portrayed in splendid colours. Paradoxically Andreas, a modern man, is frustrated by the fact that much of the traditional society around the palace will be disturbed and uprooted by planned real estate development.
I wonder if the Sultan may have been influenced by the new upper class Jakarta socialites in his inner circle of friends, when he decided the homes of his people around 'Taman Sari' must make way to build luxury villas around it. Small apartment complexes have been constructed to hide away the Sultans people. Andreas parents have already moved into their new home. Modern habitats that in fact leave little space for the traditional arts of batik. When Andreas confronted his parents with their meek reaction to these developments the traditional ways actually appear to facilitate their own downfall, as his father replied by saying that in his life he would bow to only One vertically, but also to one horizontally.
Riding through Jogja the whole spectrum of both ancient and popular culture is clear to see for those that care to look. Traditional batik cloth is sold together with impressionist batik paintings and there are more shops selling trendy 'KAOS' t-shirts than there are traditional wayang kulit and wayang golek shops. A high frequency of high quality graffiti street art alternates with art deco buildings from the colonial era and of course the old Javanese palaces. When I arrive at the Sultan's water palace 'Taman Sari' I meet Andreas, a Christian descendant of a long line of 'Sultan's people'. His father and all his predecessors were assigned to specific tasks relating to the Sultan's household. Today his father is in fact a 'koster' at the Church, but much to his son's dismay still returns to the Kraton every week to perform his assigned task: 'Clean the Sultan's toilet'.
Andreas is a well educated man of a whole new generation. He was chosen by the Unesco at the top of his class to perform tasks of a different caliber. He is also an artist that paints beautiful batik paintings. One of which I gladly purchased seeing his emotions of the moment portrayed in splendid colours. Paradoxically Andreas, a modern man, is frustrated by the fact that much of the traditional society around the palace will be disturbed and uprooted by planned real estate development.I wonder if the Sultan may have been influenced by the new upper class Jakarta socialites in his inner circle of friends, when he decided the homes of his people around 'Taman Sari' must make way to build luxury villas around it. Small apartment complexes have been constructed to hide away the Sultans people. Andreas parents have already moved into their new home. Modern habitats that in fact leave little space for the traditional arts of batik. When Andreas confronted his parents with their meek reaction to these developments the traditional ways actually appear to facilitate their own downfall, as his father replied by saying that in his life he would bow to only One vertically, but also to one horizontally.
***
Since Indonesia's process of democratisation commenced in all earnest, after the fall of the 'New Order' dictatorship, there have been elections for governor of Jogjakarta, a job always assigned to the Sultan. Of course even with the prospect of these changes to their community the Sultan's people, along the lines of their old traditions, overwhelmingly voted for their overlord. The Unesco however after having spent billions of dollars to renovate 'Taman Sari' also seem powerless to preserve the living social structure upholding the palace's culture and maybe even it's very right of existence. One thing it seems has been overlooked by the Sultan and that is the fact that I and with me undoubtedly most (paying) visitors, are attracted to the living culture and social fibre breathing life into his palaces. If I would like to visit a luxury villa I don't even have to leave my own neighbourhood, let alone travel beyond Bali or even to Indonesia.
.
How these recent developments of modernity fit with Unesco's applaudable mission is hard to fathom. I am sure it's not easy to balance tangible and intangible cultural heritage on your list of priorities, but in this case the 2 can hardly be separated. So today a Nomad wonders about Unesco's next steps, will they safe-guard or re-establish?
.
But even more to the point of the responsible parties involved, will the last surviving Indonesian Sultan of any importance start his own demise into obscurity or will he protect the unique position his father has left him?
No comments:
Post a Comment