Nomad in Bali

The Nomads have arrived in the motherland. Around midnight we left Den Pasar Airport without having arranged any accommodation. Not a problem for seasoned travelers, and isn't this our home away from home anyway? Well traveling to Lovina in the North of Bali at this time of day did prove to be a challenge and even getting a place around Den Pasar in peak season isn't all that easy. We chartered a cabbie to take us to some places nearby and after asking for a "kamar kosong" at some fully booked hotels, we finally found a spot in Kuta.

The day after we took the 'Perama' shuttle bus to Lovina and hooked up with my sister and family. After some exiting trips to diving sites and waterfalls we decided to move on to Ubud, the cultural centre of Bali. There we went to the Monkey Forest Temple where some unique religious ceremonies were held (the last of its kind was 17 years ago). Seeking silver handicraft in Celuk and woodcarving in the regional wholesale handicraft market in Sukawati filled our days until we returned south and found a hotel in Sanur.

Nomad & Jack
Here we met with Jack de Fretes, the oldest brother of a big Moluccan musical family that resides in the Netherlands. Although I have often jammed or played with his younger brothers and sister, Jack is probably the first De Fretes I made music with. That was over 20 years ago when I was just a young kid, and Jack actually can't recall the occasion. But I remember our rehearsals vividly as it was a gruesome experience to play with someone that has perfect hearing and cut rehearsals after less than 60 seconds because we were out of tune. "Really we were out of tune?"

Jack had a good job as a facility manager in the Netherlands, but 6 years ago already he decided to venture back to the motherland in an attempt to set up a business in Jakarta. After some years living in Jakarta the business venture became unprofitable. They returned to the Netherlands. But only for a short while. That they would return to Indonesia was almost without question. Now they live and work in Bali. He and his wife work as real estate agents and their daugther Damaris has a cool job in one of the big clubs in Kuta. Junior remained in the Netherlands to complete his study at the music conservatory. But visiting his family in Bali he tells me he also wonders why he didn't go with them.

One thing is clear beyond any doubt, none of them have the slightest urge
to go back to the Netherlands. "There is nothing there that can top our lives here", Jack says confidently. "But what about..." and I start listing the well known objections to the state of Indonesia. Jack has heard them all before and his replies are fluent. His arguments however are the same ones Indonesians have always used to defend their predicaments. It is my first week in Indonesia and I'm still doubtful, even though he has experienced life here first hand for the past 3 years and he has seen with his own eyes that much is rapidly changing.

"Of course there is plenty opportunity for improvement", he finally admits.
But he also explains that since the downfall of the so called 'New Order' and
the recent forward strides into the democratisation and de-centralisation
process, shown in enhanced regional authority and autonomy, the local
economies are truly growing. He lists some accomplishments ranging from academic to technical and his arguments are becoming persuasive and compelling. It seems that Indonesia is indeed finally entering a new phase of in(ter)dependence and modernity.

In a few months his youngest brother Sammy, a kick ass drummer, will marry on Bali. All preparations are well under way. And who knows perhaps Sam will also be seduced to a life of sun and surf on the beaches of Bali.

One more day on Bali and my newly wed wife, soulmate and Nomadic partner left for Singapore to return to Amsterdam via London. Our nomadic travels together have come to an end, but our live together somehow started. Where our lives will end up being lived is surely still an open question, subject to nomadic deliberation.