Nomad in New Caledonia

The Nomads have arrived in New Caledonia. New Caledonia is a Melanesian archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. 40% of the country’s population resides in the city of Noumea our first port of call. New Caledonia is still administered by the French. The indigenous Kanak people form almost 45% of the total population while the French account for 35%. Due to the upcoming referendum about independence these percentages are in fact extremely contentious as Kanak leaders suspect France of manipulating the numbers. There is in fact a considerable expatriate community of mostly French professionals that are at the top of the socio-economic structure.
But most people designated French by the census are actually native creoles called ‘Caldoches’, that have inhabited the rural parts of the islands for many generations. The expatriate French are called 'Zozos' by the Caldoche who are eager to differentiate themselves with the import French. For the most part the Caldoche have also kept separate from the Kanak, not unlike the white Australian and South African settlers. Until recently that is as the political tides are changing and the reality of a changing relationship with France is inevitable. This year the Kanak flag has been adopted next to French tri-color and in 4 years a referendum will decide if New Caledonia will become an independent state.

At the moment however major investments by French and Canadian business are still boosting the economy and employment opportunities. Much income is also generated through tourism, even though the islands are the most expensive in Melanesia. Donald an English speaking Caldoche tells us that Caledonia is careful to cut the ties with France as there is still much development needed on the islands. "We finally have a university here, but still youngsters that graduate often do not have job opportunities and first join the army for a few years." Donald himself had a poor education and also joined the French Navy before returning to his island and starting up his own business. "Most of all we need stronger work ethics.", according to Donald. "Mind you I have Kanak blood", he continues, "But I never give hand outs. They must learn not to think just one day ahead."

Cycling through Noumea we clearly see the French influences and sometimes it even looks like the Cote d'Azur. On the beach we see scenes so incredibly reminiscent of the French beaches in summer that you have to stare into the ocean horizon and see the Pacific islands to know your on the other end of the world. The well maintained infrastructure, including bicycle lanes, overall city planning and hill side houses give it that Mediterranean touch. But the exorbitant prices apparently fixed to drain tourist and expat wallets are less charming. I expect that without French funds the current standard of living here can hardly be maintained.
The Kanak like all indigenous people have a strong longing for self rule and determination. The French have responded by investing in a university, projects and museums to support and promote Kanak culture and of course the promise of a referendum. The Netherlands have clung long to their last tiny specs of overseas territory in the Caribbean. But also on these islands the people are hesitant to loose their financial lifeline. The British on the other hand were quite hesitant to even start colonising the Pacific and were even eager to grant autonomy to countries like Fiji. It is interesting to see the different dynamics of the post colonial era and it proofs that things aren't always black and white.

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Nomad on the Isle of Pines.

Ile de Pins a small island of New Caledonia is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. A truly unique jewel of the Pacific that is absolutely enchanting. Snorkeling the clear waters was magnificent but breaking and consuming a ripe coconut while sitting on its white soft sandy beach was one of our unforgettable highlights.
This picture perfect postcard paradise is high on a Nomads list of beautiful places.